Panama: Unveiling the Underrated Gem of South America for Surf as well as Travel
Playa Venao & Santa Catalina: Discover the Best Surf Spots along the Pacific Coast
Author: the vagrant Surfer
Prepare to change your perception of Panama. Panama owns some of the most beautiful surf beaches in Central America, and it’s unique in having two different world-class surfing oceans. Moreover, you can surf all year round; as one surf season ends in March on the Caribbean Sea, the other begins on the Pacific Ocean.
The array of surf spots is vast. While the Pacific coast offers more beach breaks, the Caribbean side offers reef breaks like Black-Rock in Bocas del Toro.
In this article, we will guide you to the most stunning surf spots along the Pacific coast. You’ll learn how to navigate the country from one surf spot to another and find the best accommodations. Additionally, you’ll discover fascinating insights into the country and its people.
1. Why Panama?
Panama gained global attention through the Panama Papers, and yes, it might be a tax paradise. However, it also offers breathtaking locations and some of the most beautiful surf beaches in Central America.
It is one of the most underrated travel destinations, being politically stable, safe, and relatively inexpensive compared to countries like Costa Rica. Other Central American countries, such as Nicaragua, may be more affordable, but they also face occasional unrest. Panama remains largely undiscovered by travelers, making it a budget-friendly destination with all the advantages of a popular travel spot.
The locals are incredibly friendly and helpful, with many willing to offer you a ride on the back of their pickup trucks. While there is visible poverty in areas like the Old Town of Panama City, there is no reason to feel unsafe.
2. Facts and Information about Panama
Official Language: Spanish
Currency: Dollar
Size: 75,517 sq km
Population: 4.4 million
Capital: Panama City
Panama celebrates independence twice, first from Spain and then from Colombia.
In 1821, Panama separated from Spain and became part of Gran Colombia under Simón Bolívar. After a U.S. military intervention, the present-day Panama gained independence from Colombia on November 3, 1903, known as the Panama Crisis.
3. Accommodation in Panama City
Before heading to the beaches, it’s advisable to spend a night in a hostel. The city itself doesn’t have much to offer, except for the colonial past evident in the Old Town, called Casco Viejo. Built in 1673, it has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997. It resembles Havana, Cuba’s capital, and is undoubtedly the most exciting neighborhood for travelers but also the most touristy.
A great place to stay for a few nights before continuing your journey is Selina Hostel in the Old Town. It’s very budget-friendly. However, when you head to the beaches, it’s better to book a different hostel, as it might get more expensive.
Before you head to the beaches, make sure to have enough cash on hand. For example, Playa Venao doesn’t have ATMs, and many restaurants only accept cash. It’s also wise to have enough small bills since they can be scarce at the beaches. Showing up with a large bill might make you unpopular.
Panama Surf Map
4. Playa Venao: The Pearl of Panama for Surfers
4.1 Why Playa Venao?
Between Panama City and Playa Venao, there are several surf spots like El Palmar. However, Playa Venao is truly exceptional. Its perfect, crescent-shaped bay offers a unique experience, which deserves our detailed attention.
The beach is actually a bay, making it sheltered from strong side currents that could sweep you away. The same wave breaks in a hundred meters, displaying different characteristics depending on the seafloor.
The beach provides for all skill levels. There are small waves for beginners and larger waves for more advanced surfers in the middle of the bay.
Some of the best surf camps are located here, offering video analysis and excellent restaurants.
Playa Venao is a hidden gem for travelers and surfers.
4.2 Surf Seasons & Swell Info
The break offers a long right and left wave during mid-tide and high tide. At low tide, you might find barrels. In January and February, there is a stronger offshore wind, and the swell is relatively low.
From March to November, the swell is stronger, creating quality and open waves, perfect for practicing turns. With the start of the green season in May, solid swells are brought by hurricanes from May to December.
4.4 Surf Camps, Hostels, and Surfboard Rentals
Naturally, there is a Selina hostel at Playa Venao. They even have a co-working space for digital nomads. The beachfront bar is large, pleasant, and right by the sea. They have a surfboard rental shop and surf courses too.
However, staying at Selina might come with a higher price tag, and other nearby hotels offer similar amenities. Selina is more of a party hostel, perfect for those seeking such an experience. But if you’re a surfer or traveling with family, there’s a better alternative.
The highly recommended option is the Surf Hostel Beachbreak Hostel.
Beachbreak Hostel in Playa Venao offers a surf course with video analysis. A surf instructor stays at the beach and records your surfing. Afterward, you watch the footage with the instructors, who point out areas for improvement. It’s highly effective for enhancing your surfing technique.
Restaurants are also highly recommended:
The dining scene in Playa Venao is an intriguing blend of cultures. Some restaurants, like Coleos, owned by Israelis, offer delicious Arabic dishes. Due to the significant number of Israelis who have migrated here, Playa Venao is even affectionately dubbed “little Tel Aviv.”
After a long surf session, indulge in a typical Latin American dish: Patacones — fried plantains. This carb-rich meal will replenish your energy levels and leave you feeling satisfied.
As you savor your meal, take a moment to watch and enjoy the spectacular sunset from the beach. The sunset at Playa Venao is truly breathtaking, with the whole bay painted in various shades of red, resembling an impressionist painting each time.
4.5 Conclusion — Playa Venao: A hidden gem. But for how much longer?
Playa Venao is an absolute must-visit for every surfer or traveler exploring Panama. The bay has a lot to offer, and many surfers keep coming back. As the place is not yet on the radar of many travelers, you can still enjoy genuine nature without large crowds. When you’re not surfing, take your time to reflect or relax.
Currently, there is a lot of construction going on in the area, so things may change soon. Beachfront apartments are also being built for those who wish to permanently live by the beach, making it an ideal spot for retirement.
5. Santa Catalina — La Punta & Playa El Estero
5.1 Why Santa Catalina?
Santa Catalina is located in the southwest of Panama. This sleepy little fishing village is well-known for both surfing and diving.
Many visitors to Santa Catalina also venture to Coiba National Park, which is considered an absolute natural highlight of Panama due to its biodiversity and pristine state.
Santa Catalina has around 500 inhabitants and is still relatively untouched by tourism. In the early morning, you can watch the small fishing boats head out to sea for their catch during high tide. The village is renowned for its excellent fish, which you can enjoy at the local restaurants.
There are a variety of excellent restaurants in Santa Catalina, some of which are run by expatriates. Right on the beach, you’ll find an Italian cafe called Pinguinos, where you can enjoy excellent Italian espresso while observing the fishing boats and children surfing.
From Santa Catalina, there are boat tours to Coiba Island, a diver’s paradise. The Coiba Island National Park boasts some of the world’s most beautiful coral reefs. During a day trip, you can admire these magnificent reefs while snorkeling and visit the many untouched islands nearby.
Of course, Santa Catalina is also famous for surfing. In addition to two beach breaks, there’s a point break called “La Punta”. Without a doubt, Santa Catalina is a must-visit destination for every surfer.
5.2 Surf Seasons & Swell Info
The Point Break — La Punta
One of the best point breaks in Panama, La Punta breaks in both directions, but the right is the main wave, barreling in the first section and then providing a beautiful wall.
Long rides and an easy takeoff. There’s always a small wave breaking here. When the swell arrives, the spot turns into a wave machine, and it can get quite crowded when it reaches six feet.
La Punta works best at mid-tide. Surfing during low tide is also possible, but the waves can become quite flat.
The Beach Break — Playa El Estero
In addition to La Punta, there’s a beach break called Playa El Estero. It’s a perfect option for beginners. The beach break works best from low to mid-tide. The waves break best on the right side of the rocks when the swell is low. With a larger swell, you can also catch a good left-hand breaking wave to the left of the rocks.
5.3 Conclusion
Santa Catalina is even less touristy than Playa Venao. It’s not the place for party seekers, but Bocas del Toro is perfect for that.
However, nature lovers will find their paradise in Santa Catalina. In addition to the beautiful coral reefs near Coiba Island, there are plenty of untouched islands to explore. And, of course, the sunset is always worth the ride there.
6. ¡Ya nos veremos!
I have traveled to Panama twice, staying for six weeks each time. Every time I leave, I wonder when I will be back again.
Panama’s unique geography provides opportunities for surfing, diving, and exploring lush rainforests teeming with wildlife like Boquete. The warm hospitality of its people and the fusion of diverse culinary traditions make every visit an adventure. A journey to Panama promises unforgettable memories and a deeper connection with the beauty of this Central American gem.
Have you already become eager to travel to Panama now?
If the answer was an enthusiastic “yes,” then feel free to visit my blog. There, I have provided detailed information about transportation options and more.
Originally published at “the vagrant Surfer” on May 2, 2023 in German.
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